What is the warranty on the battery?

Non-Technical Nissan QashQai chat. Mk2, Mk3
fat controller
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Post by fat controller »

Well, the car has taken matters into its own hands - just gone out to pop to the chemist, and it won't start - click, dash dies, click, dash dies. Just going to phone Nissan assist now.
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fat controller
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Post by fat controller »

RAC have been, car jump started and the battery tests fine; although I last drove it on Friday, and it has been sat all weekend, I didn't leave any interior lights on, or any lights for that matter, so why it would lose charge so quickly is beyond me. I have sat in the drive with it running for ten minutes as instructed (he reckons that would give the battery all the charge that it would take, as it is an intelligent charging system?), so we will see what happens next.

MOT tomorrow, service on the 19th. Oh, and the Stop/Start System Fault message is still on the dashboard.

PS - the RAC guy suggested I invest in a C-Tek trickle charger (won't happen until at least pay day) - anyone got one of these, and is it likely to solve the problem?
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Deleted User 3871

Post by Deleted User 3871 »

I have one of these. In addition to charging they will recondition the battery. They are rated on the battery capacity, so you need to check before buying. They are very well made & use a processor manage the cycle. I purchased this one.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/CTEK-MXS-5-0-T ... y+chargers
fat controller wrote: Mon Oct 09, 2017 10:55 am
PS - the RAC guy suggested I invest in a C-Tek trickle charger (won't happen until at least pay day) - anyone got one of these, and is it likely to solve the problem?
fat controller
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Post by fat controller »

He said that the 3.8 would be sufficient for the Qashqai, but to go for the 5.0 if I was likely to have something with a bigger battery in future - given that there is less than £20 between them, it makes sense to go for the 5.0.

How long are the leads on it? I can get my car nose in on my driveway, but the gate into the alley where the power source is will be on the wrong side of the car and I don't particularly fancy having a battery charger sat out in the open - - if I could have it sat under the shelter of the alleyway, I would feel a bit more comfortable.

I could pick one of these today and have it plugged in overnight tonight - looks to be roughly the same? Surely this will be something that is only used once in a while?
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fat controller
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Post by fat controller »

I ended up going and getting one of those chargers, and it is now plugged into the car and charging - I had the choice of 2 or 4 amps, so I went with 2 given the advice stating that it needed trickle charging.

Here is a screen print of his report:

battery diagnostics.png

A couple of questions for those in the know - why would the rating of the battery tested and the measured rating (red arrow) be different? And I am a bit concerned about the bit in the blue box, mostly the State of Health - 8%

Also, if the battery is requiring a charge, why would the alternator not charge it sufficiently? These batteries are clearly different to the older ones, and I confess that I haven't had to charge a car battery in many years, so I am trying to understand the differences in technology.
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Post by Hound »

Mine said less, but showed it needed replacement;

RAC.jpg

I can't see why your battery was considered serviceable with a state of health of 8%.
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fat controller
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Post by fat controller »

So its a 'lets fob it off until the warranty has expired' job?

Of course, the trouble is that I cannot do any form of test after the charging, so I have no idea if that will have changed the state of health?

I am also confused as to why it would say state of charge 100%, when only ten minutes before he had to attach a boost pack to the car to get it to start?
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PJB729
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Post by PJB729 »

Perhaps the battery will only store 8% of the charge it was originally designed to store, once the battery had reached its 8% charge then it considers itself 100% charged.

My iPhone battery shows me its fully charged but it only stores 86% of the charge it did when it was new.

That’s the way batteries fail by losing their ability to store the charge that they did when they were new
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fat controller
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Post by fat controller »

So, if my understanding is correct, when the car is switched on it checks the battery to see what it's condition is, then if the battery is not in a good way, it disables the stop/start system and chucks the warning up (presumably because the car believes that it is possible that it might not re-start at some point)?

So, tomorrow morning once I take it off the charger, and the car checks the battery - if it is happy with the battery voltage etc, will it then clear the stop/start system fault or is that now a stored fault that requires the dealer to reset? Or, by the act of running this on the charger, is it going to merely mask the problem long enough that the warranty will expire and this is going to bite me on the butt later?

I'll be more than a bit narked if I end up having to buy a battery AND shell out for a charger that is never going to be used.
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Post by Hound »

I don't know if it is stored under that name or just as a "central electronic unit" problem. The RAC chap had to clear all sorts out of my system when he fitted and programmed the new Bosch battery. They were symptomatic of the original battery dying.

RAC01.jpg

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