Nissan QashQai Forums

So i've finished my harness today and spoke with incipient.

Looks like i'll need the new microphone, otherwise there is an echo according to incipient.

I've also found that the connector for the car's aerial is different on the new headunit. Shouldn't be an issue, I can either find the connector or connect the pins without the connector.

Plugged it in and got the Message 'System Locked Red' as expected. Next step is a visit to a dealer to get the headunit programmed.
I've got to wait for this though as the car is going in for warranty work on the 11th.

As for wiring on my harness, it's attached below.

My squiggly line diagram might not be the easiest to read, so i've attached a simpler one also.

Super! Great job!

New microphone (5 wires) has number:
P.s.: Sorry, it's not for qashqai, it's for x-trail. But in qashqai the same problem with microphone . But i don't know number for qashqai....

Just updating this as i've had a chance to test the unit more since finding I can glitch it into working without being coded. It can become slow and glitchy but what can you expect when it's not coded.

1. Carplay

Nissan have done something with the new usb port, meaning when I connect the new head unit with the old usb port, Carplay will not work. The phone connects, then disconnect straight away. There are 2 solutions to this, either buy the new USB port or split the USB cable and provide a separate 5v power source for the phone. (A lot easier than it sounds)

I've currently tested splitting the usb cable. All I did was buy a Mini usb extension lead, cut it in half, re-connect the data cables and connect a USB A + & - cables to the + & - cables heading off to the USB port. (the + & - going back to the headunit aren't used). I then connect my usb A to a car usb charger.

As soon as i plugged my phone in I got CarPlay set up and working. If i don't buy the new usb port, i'll set this up below the centre console and use a car charger connected to the back of the 12v port.

2. Microphone

As incipient has said, if you use the old microphone with the new head unit and make a call, the person you are talking to will hear themselves echoed back. The solution to this is the new style microphone but you need the whole unit, not just the microphone. It’s the unit with the map lights, alarm, microphone and sunroom switch(if you have one).

Once you’ve got that you need to add 2 extra wires for the microphone, into the original connector. Easy enough as I had spare cables form making the harness.
Green cable needs to go to the green cable left on the head unit harness and the yellow to ground.


I tested this today and it worked perfectly!

Comparison of the new & old map light unit below as well as the new microphone.
(P.S the microphone sits under all the connector blocks on the new map light unit)

Great job!
Perhaps when you encode the head unit at the dealer, there will be no problems with usb. the essence of coding is in constant exchange on the can bus. while the head unit is not coded for your car, incorrect security information is sent on the can bus and the head unit responds slowly and not all functions work correctly, probably including usb power. Becouse almost all blocks are connected with each other by can bus and every block has identification of a specific car.
But what you did with usb power is a great idea!
Sorry for my english...

incipient wrote: ↑Sat Aug 29, 2020 5:05 am Great job!
Perhaps when you encode the head unit at the dealer, there will be no problems with usb. the essence of coding is in constant exchange on the can bus. while the head unit is not coded for your car, incorrect security information is sent on the can bus and the head unit responds slowly and not all functions work correctly, probably including usb power. Becouse almost all blocks are connected with each other by can bus and every block has identification of a specific car.
But what you did with usb power is a great idea!
Sorry for my english...

Very true! I guess I will see when it's coded to the car, if you come across someone with an iPhone, give it a go!

Your english is a lot better than a lot of native english speakers!

Out of interest and related to the Dealer part of this Mod. Below is from the J11 AV/Nav system diagnostics on replacing a head unit. Whats shown is the simplest procedure...like for like. Be interested to know what they do when writing vehicle spec data back for a different head unit?

There is a failure option here in that the procedure changes if vehicle spec cannot be read (ECU) before the new AV unit is installed. Some other config file or log file has to be found ...otherwise "incidents might occur". So this is where the Dealer money goes? I hope that "standards" prevail:

BEFORE REPLACEMENT
When replacing AV control unit, save or print current vehicle specification with CONSULT configuration before replacement.
NOTE:
If “Before Replace ECU” cannot be used, use the “After Replace ECU” or “Manual Configuration” after replacing AV control unit.

This is a little another procedure. Before it dealer must rewrite all keys in car. and only after it they make this configuration, if it necessary.

Hi everyone, very cool project, also busy on on it.
Have few questions, why not use 43 & 44 (M49 socket)

@Cod you have misprint, M187 ->M49 37

Cod wrote: ↑Fri Aug 28, 2020 6:22 pm Just updating this as i've had a chance to test the unit more since finding I can glitch it into working without being coded. It can become slow and glitchy but what can you expect when it's not coded.

1. Carplay

Nissan have done something with the new usb port, meaning when I connect the new head unit with the old usb port, Carplay will not work. The phone connects, then disconnect straight away. There are 2 solutions to this, either buy the new USB port or split the USB cable and provide a separate 5v power source for the phone. (A lot easier than it sounds)

I've currently tested splitting the usb cable. All I did was buy a Mini usb extension lead, cut it in half, re-connect the data cables and connect a USB A + & - cables to the + & - cables heading off to the USB port. (the + & - going back to the headunit aren't used). I then connect my usb A to a car usb charger.

As soon as i plugged my phone in I got CarPlay set up and working. If i don't buy the new usb port, i'll set this up below the centre console and use a car charger connected to the back of the 12v port.



I tested this today and it worked perfectly

Did you try with Carplay only? I'm interesting with Android Auto, does modification also required....