Hi all
I don’t seem to have much look with my dealer…
I like to get my oil changed every 4,500 miles or so and it’s been done 3 times so far.
I noticed on the last change that the dealer used a generic 5w30 LDPF 5W30 ARL Petrol/Dies oil instead of 0w20. I checked my other invoices and its first official service had also used 5w30.
I queried with the dealer and they said that price had been discounted at my request (I hadn’t) £239 & £100.
I was then told I had to specify which oil I want using as “people maintain there vehicles in different ways”.
I queried this with Nissan UK who sent me an email to clarify the correct oil for the Qashqai E-Power as being 5w30 and screen shot of the handbook - except the person sending the email was looking at the wrong car details (1.3 Dig-T).
So, why would going to an official NISSAN dealer require me to TELL THEM what oil I need for the car?
I’ve got the emails and invoices which I’m happy to post!
Qashqai E-Power Oil - Dealer
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0W-20 is not required but merely suggested. If not available other oils are permitted. Your engine might actually be better off long term with 5w30 as a big consideration in specifying the initial oil is meeting emission targets whereas you're probably more concerned with longevity and reliability.
If you require 0W-20 you would need to tell them beforehand.
If you require 0W-20 you would need to tell them beforehand.
Tekna Xtronic ordered April 2023 collected September 2023
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Thanks, I’m just going off what the owners manual says -
“Genuine “NISSAN Motor Oil 0W-20 SP” or “NISSAN Motor Oil 0W-20 SN” is recommended”.
By going to a NISSAN dealer I would have expected them to use what is recommended and not substitute or leave it to the customer to specify.
It’s my first brand new car and I want it to last me as long as possible.
“Genuine “NISSAN Motor Oil 0W-20 SP” or “NISSAN Motor Oil 0W-20 SN” is recommended”.
By going to a NISSAN dealer I would have expected them to use what is recommended and not substitute or leave it to the customer to specify.
It’s my first brand new car and I want it to last me as long as possible.
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First rule, use what OEM recommends, in this case 0W20.
It's a very lengthy discussion in understanding oil vicosity at different temperatures like cold start and at operating temperatures with regard to oil pump, flow rate, engine seals and tolerances that dictate that viscosity. But if we have to get into choosing a different viscosity of oil than OEM, then understand the whole science behind it, explained better in the video below,
TLDR; In modern engines, engine wear is not usually a limiting factor. Due to advancements in machining and manufacturing techinques, the tolerances and oil passages have become tighter, combined with better oil pumps, modern bearing materials and better engine sealing allow the use of thinner engine oil for super low friction in order to achieve lower engine losses and higher engine efficiency, which leads to increased power output with better mpg. Thinner oils provide higher engine efficiency BUT the engine has to be rated to handle it, meaning the oil pump, pressure & flow rate vs tolerances between parts and the engine seals etc should be rated for that oil viscosity.
Toyota has been recommending 0W8 in its hybrids for a few years now and they have been working fine. Qashqai e-Power is rated for 0W20. As a rule, use what your OEM recommends, in this case 0W20. There should be a reason to switch to thicker oil. For example when the engine starts to age due to wear and tear, the seals might weaken, the tolerances might increase, engine might start consuming oil, then get compression test of each cylinder and if required start using thicker oil like 0W-30.
For any reason, if at all you have to deviate from OEM Spec to change the oil viscosity, then there is a general rule to follow; you can go lower on the Cold number (number before W) but not higher, similarly you can go higher on the Hot number but not lower. So if OEM recommends 5W30, you can go 0W30 but not 10W30, similarly you can go 5W40 but you can not go 5W20.
The Cold number (number before W) denotes the viscosity of oil during Cold Start. In our case, when OEM recommends 0W, using a thicker oil like 5W would not circulate & flow faster enough to coat & protect everything during Cold Start.
While the Hot number (number after W) means the viscosity of oil at operating temperature and its rated so that when the oil is warm and thin, it's not too thin to leak out of the seals. So using 0W18 would not be recommended.
Bottomline, don't use oil that would be thicker during cold start, and don't use oil that would be thinner at operating temps.
Technically you can go for 0W30 for the argument of longevity like Jamie mentioned but in modern engines, engine wear is not usually a limiting factor. So stick to what the experts recommend; OEM spec, ask your dealer for 0W20. My Marshall Nissan did 0W20 without asking (receipt attached below), rather insisted that it should be 0W20 for at least the warranty period of 60,000 Miles.
Hope it makes sense, the video explains it much better.
It's a very lengthy discussion in understanding oil vicosity at different temperatures like cold start and at operating temperatures with regard to oil pump, flow rate, engine seals and tolerances that dictate that viscosity. But if we have to get into choosing a different viscosity of oil than OEM, then understand the whole science behind it, explained better in the video below,
TLDR; In modern engines, engine wear is not usually a limiting factor. Due to advancements in machining and manufacturing techinques, the tolerances and oil passages have become tighter, combined with better oil pumps, modern bearing materials and better engine sealing allow the use of thinner engine oil for super low friction in order to achieve lower engine losses and higher engine efficiency, which leads to increased power output with better mpg. Thinner oils provide higher engine efficiency BUT the engine has to be rated to handle it, meaning the oil pump, pressure & flow rate vs tolerances between parts and the engine seals etc should be rated for that oil viscosity.
Toyota has been recommending 0W8 in its hybrids for a few years now and they have been working fine. Qashqai e-Power is rated for 0W20. As a rule, use what your OEM recommends, in this case 0W20. There should be a reason to switch to thicker oil. For example when the engine starts to age due to wear and tear, the seals might weaken, the tolerances might increase, engine might start consuming oil, then get compression test of each cylinder and if required start using thicker oil like 0W-30.
For any reason, if at all you have to deviate from OEM Spec to change the oil viscosity, then there is a general rule to follow; you can go lower on the Cold number (number before W) but not higher, similarly you can go higher on the Hot number but not lower. So if OEM recommends 5W30, you can go 0W30 but not 10W30, similarly you can go 5W40 but you can not go 5W20.
The Cold number (number before W) denotes the viscosity of oil during Cold Start. In our case, when OEM recommends 0W, using a thicker oil like 5W would not circulate & flow faster enough to coat & protect everything during Cold Start.
While the Hot number (number after W) means the viscosity of oil at operating temperature and its rated so that when the oil is warm and thin, it's not too thin to leak out of the seals. So using 0W18 would not be recommended.
Bottomline, don't use oil that would be thicker during cold start, and don't use oil that would be thinner at operating temps.
Technically you can go for 0W30 for the argument of longevity like Jamie mentioned but in modern engines, engine wear is not usually a limiting factor. So stick to what the experts recommend; OEM spec, ask your dealer for 0W20. My Marshall Nissan did 0W20 without asking (receipt attached below), rather insisted that it should be 0W20 for at least the warranty period of 60,000 Miles.
Hope it makes sense, the video explains it much better.
Last edited by Jake Sully on Tue Dec 31, 2024 6:21 pm, edited 5 times in total.
73 QQ e-Power N-Connecta, Viofo 229 Pro
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Yeah me too, I think the 9,320 Miles (15,000 Km) oil change interval is ridiculous by Nissan, I also wanted to get the oil change done at 4,500 miles, but when I called my local Marshall Nissan dealership they refused to do it, said they would not change the oil before its due by miles or duartion as per Nissan guidelines for warranty purposes. I didn't want to get the oil change at a non-dealer for warranty issues. So I had it done at the dealership at 9,311 miles (11 months). What's your dealership?
73 QQ e-Power N-Connecta, Viofo 229 Pro
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One disappointment with the E-power is the lack of information about the engine and what its doing while driving. It would be very useful to have a temperature gauge and an rpm readout. It seems to warm up quickly in cold weather, especially when the heating is on, and this must be a good thing for the oil if not for the economy. Presumably cooling uses an electric water pump which only kicks in when needed. It would also be interesting to know how the lower parts of the variable compression mechanism are lubricated especially as some of the bearings reciprocate but don't rotate.
All of these factors and more affect the decision to use a particular oil and as its a unique design I wouldn't like to deviate from Nissan's recommendation .
All of these factors and more affect the decision to use a particular oil and as its a unique design I wouldn't like to deviate from Nissan's recommendation .
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Jake Sully wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2024 5:43 pmYeah me too, I think the 9,320 Miles (15,000 Km) oil change interval is ridiculous by Nissan, I also wanted to get the oil change done at 4,500 miles, but when I called my local Marshall Nissan dealership they refused to do it, said they would not change the oil before its due by miles or duartion as per Nissan guidelines for warranty purposes. I didn't want to get the oil change at a non-dealer for warranty issues. So I had it done at the dealership at 9,311 miles (11 months). What's your dealership?
I had the same issue originally trying to get the oil changed at 4500 miles a guy at the central booking office said it would void the Nissan warranty. Eventually, I got the sales guy at the dealership to sort it out for me.
My dealer is Nissan Halifax (BSM/Vertu/Brayleys) to be fair to them after I escalated my concerns the general manager arranged for an oil and filter change again using the correct Nissan oil. He also said he would have a meeting with the after sales manager to give the customer a choice as to which oil will be used - (still not Ideal) we will see…
The biggest disappointment at the moment is the lack of a follow up from Nissan UK!
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Thanks for the comprehensive reply, it makes sense and reinforces my understanding of why the correct oil should be used.Jake Sully wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2024 4:34 pm First rule, use what OEM recommends, in this case 0W20.
It's a very lengthy discussion in understanding oil vicosity at different temperatures like cold start and at operating temperatures with regard to oil pump, flow rate, engine seals and tolerances that dictate that viscosity. But if we have to get into choosing a different viscosity of oil than OEM, then understand the whole science behind it, explained better in the video below,
TLDR; In modern engines, engine wear is not usually a limiting factor. Due to advancements in machining and manufacturing techinques, the tolerances and oil passages have become tighter, combined with better oil pumps, modern bearing materials and better engine sealing allow the use of thinner engine oil for super low friction in order to achieve lower engine losses and higher engine efficiency, which leads to increased power output with better mpg. Thinner oils provide higher engine efficiency BUT the engine has to be rated to handle it, meaning the oil pump, pressure & flow rate vs tolerances between parts and the engine seals etc should be rated for that oil viscosity.
Toyota has been recommending 0W8 in its hybrids for a few years now and they have been working fine. Qashqai e-Power is rated for 0W20. As a rule, use what your OEM recommends, in this case 0W20. There should be a reason to switch to thicker oil. For example when the engine starts to age due to wear and tear, the seals might weaken, the tolerances might increase, engine might start consuming oil, then get compression test of each cylinder and if required start using thicker oil like 0W-30.
For any reason, if at all you have to deviate from OEM Spec to change the oil viscosity, then there is a general rule to follow; you can go lower on the Cold number (number before W) but not higher, similarly you can go higher on the Hot number but not lower. So if OEM recommends 5W30, you can go 0W30 but not 10W30, similarly you can go 5W40 but you can not go 5W20.
The Cold number (number before W) denotes the viscosity of oil during Cold Start. In our case, when OEM recommends 0W, using a thicker oil like 5W would not circulate & flow faster enough to coat & protect everything during Cold Start.
While the Hot number (number after W) means the viscosity of oil at operating temperature and its rated so that when the oil is warm and thin, it's not too thin to leak out of the seals. So using 0W18 would not be recommended.
Bottomline, don't use oil that would be thicker during cold start, and don't use oil that would be thinner at operating temps.
Technically you can go for 0W30 for the argument of longevity like Jamie mentioned but in modern engines, engine wear is not usually a limiting factor. So stick to what the experts recommend; OEM spec, ask your dealer for 0W20. My Marshall Nissan did 0W20 without asking (receipt attached below), rather insisted that it should be 0W20 for at least the warranty period of 60,000 Miles.
Hope it makes sense, the video explains it much better.
From my point of view a dealer is supposed to take away the need for this knowledge and you should be safe in knowing they have done the job properly.
All I’m getting from the dealer really is a rubber stamp to say the work has been done - properly or otherwise.
If it wasn’t for the warranty and any software updates I’d do it my self or get a trusted independent garage to do it.